Mandala Tunic Crochet Pattern Free

Follow my free mandala tunic crochet pattern and learn how to crochet a garment in rounds! Also, it makes a perfect beach cover-up crochet pattern!

My daughter and I are into minty and teal colors, lately. So, when I saw the Coboo yarn in the store, it was a love from first sight, lol. Of course, I bought few skeins. I think it’s a perfect yarn color to crochet a nautical garment and perfect for a mandala tunic crochet pattern.

I designed this mandala cover-up crochet pattern in size small/medium and it’s 19″ wide in the chest when the top is spread flat. This post contains some affiliate links for your convenience (which means if you make a purchase after clicking a link I will earn a small commission but it won’t cost you a penny more)! 

 

What you need for a mandala tunic crochet pattern

• #3 yarn weight – I used Lion Brand Coboo yarn – color Lichen

• crochet hook H 5.0mm

• stitch markers

Abbreviations:

ch – chain

ss – slip stitch

sc – single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

dc – double crochet

tr – treble crochet

sp(s) – space(s)

YOU CAN GET AN AD-FREE PRINTABLE PDF OF THE MANDALA TUNIC CROCHET PATTERN AT MY SHOP. INCLUDES A WRITTEN PATTERN WITH PICTURES. 

 

Let’s follow my free mandala tunic crochet pattern!

 

FRONT AND BACK PANEL – make 2

1. make a magic ring and ch4 (works as dc + ch1),

dc and ch1 in the magic ring 11 more times,

ss to the third stitch of ch4

2. ch1, (sc, 2hdc, sc) in each ch1sp around,

ss to the ch1 to the back side (remove the hook from the last ch, slip the hook from the back to the front, grab the last ch and pull to the back)

3. (ss to the back loops of both hdc, ch6) repeat around,

ss to the first ss

4. (sc, hdc, 6dc, hdc, sc) in every ch6 sps,

ss to the first sc from the back

5. ss three times to the back loops of hdc, dc, dc,

(sc to the top of third dc, ch8) repeat around,

ss to first sc

6. ss three times in ch8sp, ch6, sc in the same ch8sp,

(ch6, sc in next ch8sp, ch6, sc in same ch8sp) x11,

finish with ch2 and tr to first sc (that way you made up ch6 space and the hook is in the middle of that ch6)

7. (ch6, 3sc in next ch6sp, ch6, sc in next ch6sp) x11

ch6, 3sc in next ch6sp, ch2, tr to first sc

8. (ch6, sc to next ch6sp) x23

ch2, tr to first sc

9. ch2, dc3tog in the sane ch6sp,

(ch6, dc4tog in next ch6sp) x23,

ch2, tr in first sc

10. ch3, 3dc in this same ch6sp,

(8dc in next ch6sp) x23

4dc in next ch6sp, ss to the top of ch3

11. ch3, dc in next dc,

(ch4, sk 4dc, dc in next 4dc) x23,

ch4, sk 4dc, dc in next 2dc, ss to the top of ch3

12. ch6, 2dc in next ch4sp,

(ch3, sk dc, dc in next 2dc, ch3, 2dc in next ch4sp) x23

ch3, sk dc, dc in next dc, ss to the third ch of ch6

13. ss twice into first ch3sp, ch3, dc in the same ch3sp,

(ch4, 2dc in next ch3sp) x47,

ch4, ss to the top of ch3

Finish and weave in the yarn tail.

Lay the two panels flat and wrong side together. Place stitch markers in specific spaces for sleeves and neckline. For the sleeves mark 6 spaces and the neckline 10 spaces.

 

SLEEVE – make 2

1. make a magic ring and ch4 (works as dc + ch1),

dc and ch1 in the magic ring 11 more times,

ss to third stitch of ch4

2. ss in next ch1sp, ch2, dc in same ch1sp,

(ch3, dc2tog in next ch1sp) x11,

ch3, ss to first dc

3. ss in first ch3sp, ch2, dc2tog in same ch3sp,

(ch4, dc3tog in next ch3sp) x11,

ch4, ss to top of dc2tog

4. ss in first ch4sp, ch1, 4sc in the same ch1sp,

(ch3, 4sc in next ch4sp) x11,

ch1, dc to first sc (that makes ch3sp, and your hook is on top of the ch3sp)

5. ch3, dc in same ch3sp,

(ch5, 2dc in next ch3sp) x11,

ch1, tr to the top of ch3

6. ch3, 3dc in same sp,

(ch2, 8dc in next ch5sp) x11,

ch2, 4dc in next sp, ss to top of ch3

7. ch3, dc in next dc,

(ch3, dc in ch2sp, ch3, sk 2dc, dc in 4 next dc) x11,

ch3, dc in ch2sp, ch3, sk 2dc, dc in next 2dc

8. ch6, 2dc in ch3sp,

(ch3, 2dc in next ch3sp, ch3, sk dc, dc in next 2dc, ch3, 2dc in next ch3sp) x11,

ch3, 2dc in next ch3sp, ch3, sk dc, dc in next dc,

ss to ch3 of ch6

9. ss in ch3sp, ch3, dc in same ch3sp,

(ch4, 2dc in next ch2sp) x35

ch1, dc to the top of ch3

Lay the sleeve flat and the wrong side up. Ch2 and sc into the fourteenth ch4sp to the right.

 

Ch2 again and sc to the next ch4sp on the opposite side of the circle. Repeat until you’ll have 12 ch4sps (do not remove the hook) left and you’ll be crocheting this side of the sleeve to the front and back panels.

 

The picture below shows how to crochet the sleeve to the panels (it may not show clearly but I tried to take the best picture).

Sc to the marked ch4sp of the back panel, the wrong side together. Then ch2 and sc to the next ch4sp of the sleeve. Repeat until you’ll crochet six ch4spsof the sleeve to the ch4sps of the back panel and the other six sleeve ch4sps to the ch4sps of the front panel. Do not ch2 after the last ch4sp but sc to the first marked ch4sp of the back panel (do not remove the hook).

Now, you’ll crochet the side of the front and back panel together.

Ch2, sc to the ch4sp of opposite panel. Repeat until 6 ch4sps on the front panel are connected to 6 ch4sps on the back panel. Finish and weave yarn tail.

Crochet together the other sleeve to the panels on the other side. Also, connect 6 ch4sps on the front and 6 on the back panels together.

Do not finish this time, keep the hook in the chain, also do not remove the stitch markers on the neckline.

 

In the picture, you see the bottom of the cover-up and there are 16 ch4sps on each panel that is not connected.

 

Now, you’ll be working in rounds, connecting the front and back panels on the sides.

 

 

Your hook is on the ch4sp of the front panel,

1. ch6, (works as ch2 plus ch4), 2dc in next ch4sp,

(ch4, 2dc in next ch4sp) x15,

ch4, dc in ch4sp of the last sc on the front panel

2. dc in ch4sp of last sc on the back panel,

(ch4, 2dc in next ch4sp) x16,

ch4, dc in ch4sp of last sc on the back panel,

ss to ch2 of ch6 on the front panel

3. 2ss in the first ch4sp, ch2,

(ch4, 2dc in next ch4sp) x15,

ch4, dc in the last ch4sp on front panel,

4. dc in next ch4sp on the back panel,

(ch4, 2dc in next ch4sp) x15,

ch4, dc to the last ch4sp on the back panel

ss to ch2

5. 2ss in the first ch4sp (on front panel), ch3, dc in the same ch4sp,

(ch4, 2dc in next ch4sp) x15,

ch4, 2dc in the first ch4sp on the back panel,

(ch4, 2dc in next ch4sp) x15,

ch1, dc in the top of ch3

6. (ch4, 2dc in next ch4sp) x15,

ch4, sc into next ch4sp (it’s the middle one between back and front panel),

(ch4, 2dc in the next ch4sp) x15 (back panel),

ch4, ss to the first ch of ch4

7. repeat rounds 5 and 6 as many times as you need to accomplish the length of the cover-up you desire. Finish weave in yarn tail.

 

Attach fringes in every space around the bottom edge and sleeves of the cover-up.

Cut a 7×7” square out of cardboard. Or you can use a thin but hardcover book, that is about 7” wide. Place yarn end on the edge of cardboard or the book and hold in place.

Wrap yarn around and around the book until you’ll have the desired number of fringes. One wrap counts as one fringe and you’ll be using two yarn fringe pieces to make one fringe in each space.

Cut the yarn along one edge of the book or cardboard and now, you have 14” long pieces of yarn.

Grab two yarn pieces and fold them in half. Place the folded end into the ch4sp then weave the ends through the loop. Pull the ends to tighten the fringe.

 

Finish the neckline.

Ss yarn to one of the ch4sp on the back and ch1.

4sc in every ch4sp and one sc in between 2dc – around the neckline.

In the picture, it shows one side of the neckline with the stitch marker you pin previously. 4Sc in ch4sp on one side of the marker and then continue 4sc in ch4sp on the other side of the marker. Repeat on the other side of the neckline.

Ss to first sc, finish, and weave in yarn tail.

 

I hope you found my mandala tunic crochet pattern useful and easy to follow. You are welcome to share a picture of your crochet mandala top on my Facebook page.

Happy Crocheting,

Love,

Agnes

 

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